Try a case of these 12 local wines as a gift – Lodi News-Sentinel: Randy Caparoso

I don’t begrudge my fellow man and stalk off or click off the TVevery time one of those Lexus Christmas commercials comes on. I’mhappy for other people’s success, but after more than 30 years inthe business of selling or writing about wine, there’s one thing Inever understood: Why do people spend too much on bottles ofwine?

I’m talking about big-name, big-shot wines that cost over $100,$200 or even $500 a bottle. They’re not like a Lexus, which atleast gives you a nifty package of engineering. Fine wine is morelike aesthetic arts or crafts: The qualities appreciated aresensory, and therefore very much a state of mind, not measurabletechnology.

In my mind, the most exciting wine you could possibly give mewould be something totally new and unexpected, because I craveoriginality as opposed to sameness; surprise as opposed topredictability.

And if there’s anything for which Lodi-grown wines are becomingincreasingly known, it’s their originality and total, wonderfulability to surprise. Who would think, for instance, that wines madefrom grapes called Tannat or Verdelho could taste so good? Althoughthese grapes have European origins, very few vintners in NapaValley or Walla Walla would think to grow them. They’re mostlystuck on grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay — which areperfectly fine, but not exactly a turn-on for someone like me, whodrinks wine for a living (yeah, somebody has to do it).

So if you truly wish to turn on the big-shot wine lover in yourlife, consider putting together a case of these 12 excitingLodi-grown wines:

2009 Alta Mesa Cellars, Lodi Verdelho ($14) —Cuttings of this grape originated from the Azores island of Pico,discovered by vigneron Ron Silva while visiting his family home.Amazing dry white with peach skin and lime perfumes, hinting atscented garden herbs like pineapple sage and lemon verbena; tastinglightly tart, silky smooth, stony dry. Find at Lodi Wine &Visitor Center. www.lodiwine.com.

2009 Uvaggio, Lodi Vermentino ($14) — WinemakerJim Moore calls Vermentino the “thinking man’s Pinot Grigio,” whichit is — stony qualities laced with citrus and dried herb,lavender-like notes; the potpourri sensations kissing the palatewith lemony crispness in a light, lithe, limber body.www.uvaggio.com.

2010 Riaza, Terra Alta Vineyard Clements Hills-LodiAlbariño ($19) — Lodi has been feeding the growing demandfor this grape with the largest plantings outside its home in RiasBaixas, Spain. Peaks of minerals and fruit in a bone dry, mediumbodied package; scents of wildflowers, honey, grapefruit,pineapple, even green mango. www.riazawines.com.

2010 Odisea Cochon, Clements Hills-Lodi Grenache Blanc($25) — Subtly crafted white exuding as much a naturalnessof fruit as pure, unadulturated intensity: billowing fragrances ofwhite peach, apricot and tropical flowers, with honeyed, melony,quince-like flavors layered upon silky, swirling, crispy, creamysensations. www.cochonwine.com

2008 Bokisch, Terra Alta Vineyard Clements Hills-LodiGarnacha ($18) — From a clonal selection culled fromSpain’s Rioja Baja — very fine, sensual, strawberry liqueur-likefruit, permissive in the nose, demure on the palate, finishing withdangerous whiffs of tobacco. www.bokischvineyards.com

2009 R (Jeff Runquist), Silvaspoons Lodi Souzão($24) — Few vintners bother with Souzão, even in itsnative Portugal (where it is usually goes into sweet fortifiedwines), and this luscious, dry red table wines like this make youwonder why. Black and Bing cherry explosion in soft, bright, almostlevitating medium body. www.jeffrunquistwines.com.

2007 Fenestra, Silvaspoons Vineyards Lodi Touriga($28) — Made from the “king” of Portugal’s Port grapes;here, vinified into a dry varietal red, giving sensations ofroasting beef, concentrated plum and blackberryish fruit in nose,with thick, meaty yet pliant palate sensations.www.fenestrawinery.com.

2006 Akin Estates, Christesen Vineyard Reserve LodiTannat ($18) — This South-West French grape is not for thefaint of heart — so dense and full you can eat it with a spoon. Yetamazingly plump with plummy, black fruits, faintly of leather,dusty loam and woodsmoke. At Woodbridge Uncorked Wine Bar,www.woodbridgeuncorked.com.

2009 Kidder Family, Lodi Syrah ($26) —California Syrah has become so unfashionable that you want tocelebrate when a winemaker like Aaron Kidder manages to plumb deepinto the grape’s intrinsic beauty — like regally rich violet andAsian tea-like spice perfumes, and meaty, fleshy, yet vibrant,silky sensations that fill the mouth without weighing it down. Tofind, Facebook Kidder Family Winery.

2008 Grands Amis, Elk Vineyard Private Reserve BordenRanch-Lodi Petit Verdot ($25) — Made from Bordeaux’s leastappreciated grape — a compote of raspberry and blackberry aromasagainst backdrop of allspice-like oak; taut, dense, yet sumptuoustexturing giving a compact, elegant feel. www.grandsamis.com.

2009 Michael~David, Inkblot Lodi Cabernet Franc($35) — From the “other” cabernet — a hugely rich yetsatiny smooth red wine with floral/violet-like varietal aromasentwined with fresh, wild berry perfumes and suggestions of smoky,roasting coffee. May be the best wine this winery has ever made!www.michaeldavidwinery.com.

2009 St. Jorge, Lodi Sobremesa($23/half-bottle) — Finally, something that makes a lightdessert in itself, vinified from the Torrontés grapes — a sensuallysoft, easy, discreetly sweet essence of pear and apple nectars withtwists of lemon peel. www.stjorgewinery.com.

Randy Caparoso is the multi-award winningsommelier/restaurateur and longtime wine journalist who pens theblog for the Lodi Winegrape Commission’s www.lodiwine.com.

Try a case of these 12 local wines as a gift – Lodi News-Sentinel: Randy Caparoso

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